Historic Preservation - Technical Procedures
Patching Hairline Cracks In Plaster
Hspg Prepared For Nps - Sero
Patching Hairline Cracks In Plaster
PATCHING HAIRLINE CRACKS IN PLASTER<= br>
A. This procedure includes guidance on patching hairl= ine
cracks in plaster with reinforcing tape and joint
B. Cracks may be cyclical, opening and closing with seasonal
variation in humidity which causes the lath to swell and
C. See 01100-07-S for general project guidelines to be
reviewed along with this procedure. These guidelines
cover the following sections:
1. Safety Precautions
2. Historic Structures Precaution= s
4. Quality Assurance
5. Delivery, Storage and Handling=
6. Project/Site Conditions
7. Sequencing and Scheduling
8. General Protection (Surface and Surrounding)
These guidelines should be reviewed prior to performing
this procedure and should be followed, when applicable,
along with recommendations from the Regional Historic
Preservation Officer (RHPO).
1.02 PROJECT/SITE CONDITIONS
A. Environmental Requirements:
1. Keep the room temperature above 55=F8F until the
plaster/joint compound has set.
2. Provide plenty of ventilation as the plaster dries.
A. U.S. Gypsum Association
810 First Street NE, #510
Washington, DC 20002
202/289-5440, FAX 202/289-3707
B. Tuff-kote Company, Inc.
210 Seminary Avenue
Woodstock IL 60098
A. Joint compound such as "Durabond Wallboard Compound"
(U.S. Gypsum Association), "Krack-k= ote" (Tuff-Kote Co.),
or approved equal.
1. "Krack-kote": = Good for problem cracks that may
break through the Sheetro= ck tape and compound.
a. It uses a pliab= le adhesive and a glass fiber
reinf= orcing tape; it has more flexibility and
stren= gth than ordinary joint compound.
b. Available from large paint supply stores.
c. It is more expensive and more timely to apply
than ordinary joint compounds.
B. Reinforcing tape (cloth or paper): Cloth is better for
flat surfaces because of its open-weave, but it is
difficult to find in the U.S.
C. Acrylic latex caulk
A. Wide joint knife (approximately 5-6 inches wide)
B. Sponge or heavy-nap cloth
C. Caulking gun
D. Crack widener or triangular can opener
E. Stiff bristle brushes or vacuum
A. Types of plaster cracking include, map cracking, alligatoring, settlement cracks, hairline cracks, stress
related cracks and cracks due to moistur= e.
B. If a wall has an enormous number of cracks to be taped,
consider replastering or canvasing the surface.
3.02 ERECTION, INSTALLATION, APPLICATION
A. Slightly widen the crack with a sharp, pointed tool like
a crack widener or a triangular can opener.
B. Brush or vacuum surface to remove dust and debris.=
C. Apply joint compound with a wide joint knife; Butter the
compound into the crack, spreading it about 3 inches on
either side of the crack.
D. Center mesh reinforcing tape over the crack, and force
the tape down into the bed of the joint compound with the
knife; Remove any excess compound by wiping with the
E. When the tape is bedded, cover surface with a thin layer
of compound and smooth as much as possib= le by working
with the joint knife.
F. When the first coat has dried (at least 24 hours), smooth
out any ridges by "wet sanding" with a damp sponge or a
heavy-nap cloth folded flat or wrapped around a suitable
G. Apply a second thin coat of joint compound and feather
the edge at least 1 inch beyond the first coat.
H. After the second coat has dried, wet-sand lightly and
apply a thin finishing coat.
I. Lightly sand the surface again, and clean off the area
with damp sponge.
J. After the surface has dried, brush off any plaster=
residue or dust.
NOTE: For gaps between plaster surfaces and surroundin= g
woodwork, apply acrylic latex caulk using a caulking gun.
END OF SECTION