Repairing Pocket Door Hardware Including Tracks And Stops
REPAIRING POCKET DOOR HARDWARE INCLUDING TRACKS AND STOPS
A. This procedure includes guidance on repairing pocket door
hardware with salvage or modern assemblies. Work may
include replacing a missing or severely damaged floor
track in a pocket door. It may also include repairing
double pocket doors that roll out beyond the center
point. This is usually caused by either a missing metal
stop piece or building settlement.
NOTE: IF TOP HUNG DOOR HARDWARE MUST BE REPLACED,
PORTIONS OF ADJACENT WALLS MAY HAVE TO BE DEMOLISHED.
B. Other pocket door repair procedures include the
1. For guidance on unsticking a pocket door, repairing
balkiness or binding, see 08210-04-R.
2. For guidance on repairing out of plumb pocket
doors, see 08210-05-R.
C. See 01100-07-S for general project guidelines to be
reviewed along with this procedure. These guidelines
cover the following sections:
1. Safety Precautions
2. Historic Structures Precautions
4. Quality Assurance
5. Delivery, Storage and Handling
6. Project/Site Conditions
7. Sequencing and Scheduling
8. General Protection (Surface and Surrounding)
These guidelines should be reviewed before performing
this procedure and should be followed, when applicable,
along with recommendations from the Regional Historic
Preservation Officer (RHPO).
A. Top-hung pocket doors - are unique because of their
1. There are two types of hanging hardware for pocket
a. Single roller type: Has one roller (front and
back) and makes use of one metal track.
b. Side by side roller type: Has two rollers
(front and back) that move along on matching
wood tracks on either side of the roller
2. Unlike pocket doors with a bottom track, top hung
doors have a retractable metal or wood finger
mounted at rear edge of door called a rear stop.
This stop must be released for door to clear pocket
1.03 SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
A. A pocket door assembly in good working condition is free
from decay and structurally sound. It is effortlessly
smooth sliding and properly aligned. The pocket doors
stop precisely when closed and are easily retrieved from
pocket. The door latches crisply and should not rattle
between latch and stops when closed.
A. -Stanley Hardware Co. www.stanleyhardware.com
-Stanley Commercial Hardware www.stanleycommercialhardware.com
-Lee Valley Co. http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/WhatsNew.aspx?ap=1
-Johnson Hardware http://www.johnsonhardware.com/sdindex.htm
E. Aerosol lubricant with plastic spray nozzle such as
WD40 http://wd40.com/, or
Elmer���������s Slide-All Dry Spray Lubricant http://www.elmers.com/product/detail/E450, or
an RHPO approved equal.
A. New or salvage hardware
B. Replacement plaster and lath
C. Mild steel flat stock and rod
E. Materials for plaster and lath replacement
F. Metal mending angle
G. Metal pipe and plate
A. Carpenter's tools to remove door casing, jamb, and stop
B. Tools to remove and replace plaster
C. Manufacturer specified tools for installing new hardware
D. Drill capable of making hole through metal
E. Tack welding equipment
G. Tools for removing base board
A. Protection: Mask or cover adjacent surfaces and
permanent equipment during repair and maintenance.
Coverings must be adhered without adhesive tape or nails.
DO NOT USE impervious sheeting that produces
3.02 ERECTION, INSTALLATION, APPLICATION
A. Replacement Using Salvage Hardware:
1. Remove a 4-1/2" to 6" wide swath of plaster and
lath on one side of pocket.
2. Repair hardware or replace with similar salvage
hardware. Warped wood tracks can be easily
B. Replacement Using New Hardware:
NOTE: MODERN HARDWARE USES BALL BEARINGS RATHER THAN
ROLLERS. MORE PLASTER MAY HAVE TO BE REMOVED FOR
REPLACEMENT IF MODERN HARDWARE IS USED FOR REPAIRS.
1. Install new blocking between door framing to
provide surface for attaching hardware. Follow
manufacturer's instructions for installing hardware
and adjusting door heights.
2. Screw in new track assembly overhead with rollers
popped in place.
3. Screw new flanges to top of doors.
4. Slip door and flanges in place and adjust door
NOTE: FLOOR TRACK INCLUDED WITH NEW HARDWARE IS USUALLY
NOT NEEDED IN THIS TYPE OF APPLICATION UNLESS A FLOOR
TRACK ALREADY EXISTS.
5. Replace plaster and lath as required (see 009210-
03-R for guidance).
C. For Damaged or Deteriorated Track:
NOTE: REPLACEMENT TRACK MUST FIT SIZE OF ROLLERS
MORTISED IN BOTTOM OF DOOR.
1. Purchase and install new track and matching rollers
- or use salvage materials.
2. If prefabricated replacement floor track is
unavailable, replacement track can be produced with
a. Drill holes down center of mild steel flat
stock at 6" o.c.
b. Tack weld a steel rod through the holes that
matches the diameter of rollers.
c. Drill countersunk screw holes, into flat
stock, at 6" o.c., staggered on either side of
d. Adhere new track to floor.
NOTE: WALL SURFACE DOES NOT NEED TO BE
COMPLETELY REMOVED. CLEARANCE INSIDE POCKET
ENOUGH FOR USE OF A SCREWDRIVER IS ALL THAT IS
1) To access track inside pocket, remove
baseboard on less conspicuous side of
2) Remove wall surface by cutting a `V' in
plaster with utility knife or chisel.
Top of 'V' should be about 8" above
3) Carefully remove plaster inside 'V' and
D. For a Missing Metal Stop:
1. If doors fit together like a tongue and groove
joint, cut a metal stop from a metal mending angle.
2. Cut one leg of the angle so that it will hang down
from the top guide to just meet the top of the
3. Mortise the top piece of the angle into the top
4. If doors have rounded edges, make a stop out of two
halves of a piece of properly sized pipe welded to
a metal plate; screw metal plate into a mortise cut
into the top guide.
E. For Doors that Run Below the Level of the Stop Guides:
CAUTION: TAKE CARE, AS DOOR COULD FALL OUT OF POCKET.
1. Increase the depth of the molding by providing
Replace entire stop molding.
NOTE: REGIONAL HISTORIC PRESERVATION OFFICER AND/OR HISTORICAL ARCHITECT MUST BE CONSULTED FOR
MOLDING REPLACEMENT CHOICE.
END OF SECTION