Replacing Damaged Floorboards

Procedure code:
956001S
Source:
HSPG Prepared For NPS - Southeast Regional Office
Division:
Finishes
Section:
Wood Strip Flooring
Last Modified:
03/13/2017


REPLACING DAMAGED FLOORBOARDS

 

 

PART 1---GENERAL

1.01 SUMMARY

 

    A.   This procedure includes guidance on removing damaged

         floorboards and installing new replacement boards.

 

    B.   Replacing a floorboard should only be undertaken as a

         last resort - when a board is inadequate or dangerous

         such as severely warped or buckled boards, deeply nicked

         or splintered boards, boards with noticeable or

         irreversible urine stains, boards with holes that cannot

         be filled, or missing sections of border or inlay.

 

    C.   See 01100-07-S for general project guidelines to be

         reviewed along with this procedure.  These guidelines

         cover the following sections:

 

         1.   Safety Precautions

 

         2.   Historic Structures Precautions

 

         3.   Submittals

 

         4.   Quality Assurance

 

         5.   Delivery, Storage and Handling

 

         6.   Project/Site Conditions

 

         7.   Sequencing and Scheduling

 

         8.   General Protection (Surface and Surrounding)

 

         These guidelines should be reviewed prior to performing

         this procedure and should be followed, when applicable,

         along with recommendations from the Regional Historic

         Preservation Officer (RHPO).

 

1.02 SYSTEM DESCRIPTION

 

    A.   A wood floor surface can be either a series of connected

         planks or parquet (small wood pieces arranged in

         decorative patterns). The wood used is either plain sawn

         or quarter sawn.  Plank flooring, the more common type,

         is assembled by joining:  butt joint, tongue and groove,

         shiplap, doweled or spline. Wood floors are usually

         secured to the under structure by countersinking nails,

         blind-nailing, or screwing and plugging.

 

    B.   A wood floor surface in proper condition does not sag, is

         not inadvertently stained, is free from protruding nails,

         and is not warped.

 

1.03 DELIVERY, STORAGE AND HANDLING

 

    A.   Storage and Protection:

 

         1.   Every effort must be made to use and reuse

              materials that are original to the structure.  When

              removed from their rightful place, these materials

              must be stored under cover inside the building

              where they cannot be damaged.

 

         2.   If many pieces are to be removed, they must be

              marked inconspicuously in a consistent manner as to

              their location originally.

 

         3.   If salvage material is to be used, treat it as the

              original material with regards to its storage.

 

         4.   If new material must be used, keep it dry during

              delivery, storage and handling.

 

         5.   Do not allow materials to be stored in contact with

              damp surfaces.

 

 

PART 2---PRODUCTS

2.01 MANUFACTURERS (The following, or approved equal)

 

    A.   Craftsman Lumber Co.

          http://www.craftsmanlumber.com/

 

 

2.02 MATERIALS

 

    A.   Replacement board (to match existing wood type, grain,

         etc.) from a salvage yard, new lumber yard, or

         inconspicuous place in building.

 

         NOTE:  In buildings where tenant areas were originally

         finished with wood plank or parquet, the wood is often

         retained as a sub-floor for carpet.  Such concealed areas

         may be a source of replacement flooring for areas of

         exposed wood.

 

    B.   Wood for shims (no shingles)

 

    C.   Wood putty to fill holes

 

    D.   Colors-in-oils or residue from stain container to stain

         putty to match

 

    E.   Flooring nails

 

2.03 EQUIPMENT

 

    A.   Keyhole saw, circular saw, or mallet and chisel to remove

         damaged board

 

    B.   Drill to make a pilot hole for the keyhole saw

 

    C.   Nailset

 

    D.   Tools for accurate measurement

 

    E.   Carpet scrap or newspaper and pounding block for knocking

         new piece into place

 

 

PART 3---EXECUTION

3.01 EXAMINATION

 

    A.   Inspect for wear in the surface such as chips or gouges.

         If the wear is minimal, holes can be filled and the

         surface restored.

 

    B.   Inspect for the signs of insect infestation such as mold,

         fungus, bore holes, and sawdust piles.  Probe the wood

         with an ice pick or thin knife blade to determine the

         existence of rot.

 

3.02 ERECTION, INSTALLATION, APPLICATION

 

    A.   Removing a damaged board:

 

         NOTE:  THE DAMAGED BOARD WILL HAVE TO BE DESTROYED TO

         REMOVE IT.

 

         1.   If the gap between boards is wide enough, remove

              the tongue of the damaged board with a chisel and

              lift board out.

 

              -OR-

 

         2.   Remove board with a saw:

 

              a.   Drill a hole, next to the joist edge, large

                   enough for a keyhole saw to be inserted.  DO

                   NOT DRILL THROUGH THE SUBFLOOR.

 

              b.   With the saw, make a cut along the width of

                   the board and along the length of the section

                   to be removed.

 

              c.   Carefully pry the board out, protecting

                   adjacent wood.

 

              d.   If a circular saw is used, set the blade depth

                   to the thickness of the finished floor.  Use a

                   carbide flooring blade that will also cut

                   through nails.

 

                   CAUTION:  Do not cut all the way across to the

                   edge of adjacent floor boards.  A loss of

                   control can do irreparable damage to adjacent

                   boards.

 

              e.   Use a  chisel to finish the cut.

 

         -OR-

 

         3.   Remove board with a mallet and chisel:

 

              a.   Cut along the width of the board to the

                   nearest joist on either side of damage with

                   the beveled edge of the chisel facing the

                   damage.  Make sure that the joints in

                   floorboards remain staggered.

 

              b.   To free the board from nails, channel cut a

                   wedge from each end holding the chisel at a 30

                   degree angle with the bevel side down, or

                   drive nails through board with nailset.

 

              c.   Remove the center section down the face of the

                   board.  The other pieces should then come out

                   easily.

 

    B.   Installing a new board:

 

         1.   Square up the edges of the hole before inserting

              replacement board.

 

         2.   Measure the new board to fit exactly.  If it is

              tongue and groove, remove the bottom shoulder of

              the groove.  Shim if necessary.

 

         3.   If no subfloor exists, add blocking to joist below

              to support new floorboard.  

 

         4.   Knock the new board into place protecting the

              surface with a carpet scrap or newspaper and a

              pounding block.

 

         5.   Face nail the board to the subfloor or nail board

              ends into joists or attached nailing blocks.  

 

         6.   Fill the nail holes with wood filler stained to

              match floor.  

 

              a.   Add filler in layers and allow to dry between

                   each layer.

 

              b.   To stain wood filler use either colors-in-oils

                   or the settled pigment from the bottom of a

                   stain container.  When staining to match, go

                   darker than the original color rather than

                   lighter.

 

                             END OF SECTION

 

Last Reviewed 2017-03-13